Genyadana Hamadaya: Tokyo Kaiseki

Thursday, December 25th, 2008

Located in the bustling old-town Tokyo region of Akasaka, Hamadaya is certainly a hidden sanctuary tucked away in an obscure side street. Earnestly awaiting your arrival, you are greeted by 2 kneeling waitresses–one of whom we later learn is Mari, one of the owner’s daughters. With smiling faces and a warm “iraishaimase,” it’s from this point onwards that you know you are in for royal treatment. I mean, when was the last time you were greeted by 2 kneeling women?

What I particularly enjoyed about the experience apart from the food is that unlike most other 3-Michelin-Star establishments, the Hamadaya experience was surprisingly laid back. Perhaps it’s the fact that parties are seated in individual private rooms, so you feel less of a need to be on your best behavior. Or maybe it’s because you’re sitting on the floor in your socks. But it’s probably the warm, wooden, traditional homey interior of the place (there was even an old-school Sony television in the waiting room, as if part of someone’s living room…and listen out for the creeky floors in the video at the end of this post). Whatever it was, it was a pleasure and a refreshing change from the “fine-dining” mold.

Two lunch menus are offered, one at 15,000JPY per person and another at 23,000JPY per person. Below outlines the 15,000JPY lunch menu, though it must be noted that according to Mari, the menu changes every two weeks.

As our amuse, we were treated to vegetables dressed with sesame paste, mashed broad beans, deep fried prawn, and grilled squid. All of which were geometrically beautiful. I especially enjoyed the vegetables in sesame paste–small bites yet packed with serious nutty and fragrant punch reminiscent of “gado-gado,” an Indonesian take on salad.

Next, was the clear soup dish: a dumpling of adductor in a round clam, bamboo shoot, carrot, beancurd skin, and daikon raddish–an amazing balance of flavors and textures from the crisp sweetness of the bamboo shoot to the tender, warm, savoriness of the dumpling. All topped off with the refreshing scent of orange peel permeating the dish.

Sashimi of otoro, flat fish, and striped jack was next. As expected, the trio was beautifully presented, choice of fish thoughtfully selected, and quality nothing short of spectacular. The flat fish, typically a refreshing and clean choice of sashimi, certainly carried those characteristics but unlike any I’ve tried before, had a subtle sweetness. I was compelled to douse extra soy sauce on it just to bring out the sweetness. The striped jack had a more firm texture which kept things interesting. The otoro…well, it’s hard to go wrong when this probably came from Tsukiji market at 5am the very same morning.

The fourth dish was steamed rice topped with 3 slices of wagyu. No bottled terriyaki sauce, just a simple seasoning of salt, pepper, soy sauce, and quality cuts of meat. All beautifully presented, and served in just the right amount to make you want more (which is the perfect portion size, of course).

The grilled plate was a grilled yellowtail dressed with Japanese pepper and picked herring roe. Personally, my least favorite dish since I felt the grilling may have dried the fish out a little, but a wonderful combination of flavors and textures–especially the herring roe, which is gelatenous and covered in a sticky film.

Next was a simmered plate of daikon radish covered in deep fried tofu skin, a duck meatball, and greens. Again, quality ingredients with minimal human-intervention allowing the freshness and raw flavors of the ingredients to shine. The duck meatball was so delicate and soft, I could eat those all day.

As the last course, we had rice cooked with bamboo shoots, omelette with crab, and dark brown miso soup with pickles. Simply fantastic.

For dessert, the freshest Japanese fruit you can imagine, simply yet beautifully presented. Paired with a red bean mochi, which while very sweet, was extremely fragrant.

Eight rooms, eight chefs. They might not be the “celebrity chefs” who so many of us, myself included, put up on a pedastel, but they are most definitely unsung heros delivering gastronomic pleasure to everyone who walks in the doors at Hamadaya.

Thank you Mari and the Hamadaya staff who made this one of the most enjoyable meals I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing in a very long time. And Merry Christmas to one and all!

Finally, a quick glimpse into Hamadaya’s five-generation old interior:

Hamadaya
3-13-5 Nihonbashiningyo-cho, Chuo-ku
Tokyo
Tel: 03-3661-5940